Gone Fishin’ A Review of Catfish King 12/2/03 by Kevin Roden

RATINGS (out of 5)

There’s another side to Denton that we often forget about given our submersion into the young, hip college culture. For many who live in the rural communities surrounding us, Denton is big city life. When they want to go “into town” for a good meal, places like David Beard’s Catfish King tops their A list. Nestled on a spacious lot on the north side of University Drive (known as 380 by those driving in from Decatur) just between Bonnie Brae and Malone Street, this establishment promises a culture shock for any unsuspecting college kid.

As we pulled into the parking lot, we were greeted by vendors hawking locally grown pecans. Once inside, the rugged log cabin feel made me forget I was in a town that has just sold its soul to Big Business (see what’s going on up on Loop 288) – I felt a part of something that was larger than myself, yet small enough that I felt like a somebody (try to conjure up that feeling at McDonalds). As I stood at the walk-up counter admiring my options (all you can eat fried catfish for $10.95, a variety of $4.95 lunch specials, and all the expected fixin’s for the side), a friendly employee informed me that this restaurant has been around longer than I have walked this earth, while at the same time telling me more than once that she was glad I came. You won’t find any spoiled, no-work-ethic, tongue-ring-bearing frat daddies working here – just honest, God-fearing, Wrangler-wearing good people.

I opted for the fried catfish special with beans, cole slaw, fries, and hush puppies. I’ve caught enough catfish in my day to know a fresh catfish when I taste it, and this was fresh catfish. The batter was a bit bland, so I had to spice it up with a little of the complimentary Cajun Chef Brand Hot Sauce that I found up at the condiment bar. Russ got the same thing and cleared his plate. Henry ordered the chicken fried steak lunch special and said, “I haven’t had chicken fried steak that good in a long time!” Gloria was not so pleased. Upon entering the establishment, she conveys to us that she thinks she is allergic to fish and was forced into their soup and salad special – not exactly what they are known for.

Although our lunch time conversation consisted mostly in a discussion of new music technology, a critique of the new Paris Hilton reality show, and Russ’s new invention ideas, this is a good place to go to get away from our superficial pop culture. Here’s a place where Justin is a brand of boots and Britney is the name of their niece’s 4-H show hog.

You know what they say, “Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day – teach him how to fish and he will eat forever.” I say, “Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day – show him where Catfish King is and he will eat there forever!”

Kevin Roden can be e-mailed at roden@tams.sch.unt.edu.