Shiny Foil A Review of Chipotle Mexican Grill 12/09/03 by Henry Dawson

RATINGS (out of 5)

Burritos are big business all of the sudden. I guess it all started at Freebirds in College Station. Or, maybe it has to do with the trend toward “one-handed food.” (noun. Food that is small enough to hold in one hand and is not messy to eat so that it can be consumed while driving or working.¹) Either way, every able-bodied businessman in the southwest is trying to make a buck peddling big burritos wrapped in foil. Who knows what the charm is? Maybe it’s the convenience, maybe it’s the flavor, maybe people just like things wrapped in foil – you know, being shiny and all.

So, we decided to check out the new Chipotle in Denton. As a part of Denton being “Open for Business†” there are all manor of big business vendors moving into our previously sleepy and homespun hamlet. Loop 288 is the epicenter: Best Buy, Golden Coral, Oshmans, Pier One, Bed, Bath, and Beyond, and World Market (which is actually very cool) have all taken their place across the street from the dreaded Wal-Mart Super Center. Right next to Best Buy is where you will find Chipotle.

The approach to Chipotle is intriguing; the exterior styling is fresh and modern. There is an ample wrap around patio, which will be fun when warm weather returns. The interior

Ask me again in about 30 minutes. Kevin, about his under-cooked beans.

is cool: think brushed steal and oak, industrial luxury at it's finest. However, the fashionable décor has a practical disadvantage. Gloria observed, “I feel like I am in Bruce, the tables are so close together.” This, plus the concrete floors and loud (although, hip) background music contributed to the dining area being slightly too loud for conversation. I felt like I had to yell to be heard during our discussion about community service hours and their validity.

The menu is simple; there are four food types and five meat choices. There are burritos (fajita and regular), tacos, and bowls. I was impressed by the meat choices; there was barbacoa (spicy shredded beef), carnitas (free range, shredded pork), chicken (the meat of a chicken), steak (over-priced beef) and some type of vegetarian option (black beans or a giant mushroom, who cares?).

I had the tacos with barbacoa; this succulent, braised meat stood out as the highlight of my meal. It was lean, tender, and a little spicy. The tacos were garnished with a tomatillo salsa, romaine lettuce and a mixture of Monterey jack and white cheddar cheeses. I further enhanced my tacos with a few shots of Chipotle Tabasco sauce. I found my meal to be very tasty and about what I was expecting. I wasn’t disappointed, but I wasn’t overwhelmed either. Russ and Kevin both had the burrito bowl, basically a bowl full of everything that would go in a burrito. Starting with a bed of rice, then lettuce, cheese, pinto beans, meat of choice, and guacamole were added. Kevin complained that his beans were under-cooked. I asked him how the under-cooked beans made him feel and he responded, “Ask me again in about 30 minutes.” Regrettably, I did not. Russ seemed generally satisfied, but asked one of his famous rhetorical questions, “What about this meal would make me want to come back more than once a week?” We each pondered momentarily and returned to our previous conversation.

What about this meal would make me want to come back more than once a week? Russ, about his meal

Glo had a chicken burrito, pretty much the same as the bowl only wrapped in a tortilla. When pressed for an opinion, Gloria noted that Hooya’s burritos have better tasting chicken and more topping choices. Hooya is in Carriage Square, across from Sack n’ Save. But, she added that she does appreciate that the Chipotle burrito was slightly grilled (remember that she likes things that are crispy). She also lamented that her water cup did not have a story printed on it, as the soft drink cups did.

Overall, I would say it is not a bad dining option if you find yourself craving an over-priced burrito or taco served in a hip warehouse, especially if you like shiny things. Oh, and a note about the service: Besides Kevin’s observation that the manager was underdressed, the service was exceptional for this type of establishment. I think it has a lot to do with their grand opening. Bottom line: If you are on this side of town, go to Hooya, if you venture to the south side, Chipotle will satisfy.

¹ http://www.wordspy.com

† A couple of years ago there was a turn over in the city leadership of Denton. The previous administration was very anti-development, desiring that Denton not be turned into an extension of Lewisville – strip malls and chain restaurants. Those people are now gone and Denton seems to be lining its wallets with the fees of any business enterprise that can buy a plot of land. Only time will tell how the mom and pop economy of Denton will hold up under the strain.

Henry Dawson can be e-mailed at dawson@tams.sch.unt.edu.