RATINGS (out of 5)

This morning I had breakfast at Mi Casita with my friend John and I noticed on the cover of the Denton Record Chronicle that the grass roots movement to reopen Steve’s Bar-B-Q has re-sprouted. What? You don’t know what I am talking about? Steve’s bar-B-Q was a Denton legend. A gruff man, Steve, in a yellow and red shack would ask you one question, “Spicy or mild?” If you said “spicy” he would give you a diminutive smile of endorsement. “Mild” brought a furrowing of Steve's brow, followed by a groan of disappointment. To bring this history lesson to an end, Steve’s burned to the ground on Easter Sunday 2001. You can read more about it in the Denton Record Chronicle.

So, I sent this article to the others this morning to get everyone warmed up for my pick. Rudy’s Bar-B-Q was my destination of choice. It’s pretty new in Denton, a chain from near San Antonio, but they have a down home Denton feel that works. Rudy’s shows all UNT football games and seems to find other ways be involved in the community.

Bar-B-Q by the Pound

When we arrived, I started snapping pictures. This made a meat cutter a little nervous - so he shouted from behind the counter, “Are you with Texas Monthly?” Defensively I said, “No.” Regardless, Meat Man sent some samples of smoked turkey to appease us, as he thought we were part of the actual press. After we ordered, Meat Man asked again – “Who are you guys with? I saw you taking pictures.” Russ told him that we were from Time Magazine. Not really, but it would have been funny.

Ordering at Rudy’s is a little disorienting. Meat is ordered in parts of pounds; I tried to explain to Russ and make some recommendations. He, like all first time visitors, looked a little overwhelmed. They have brisket, sausage, ribs, pork loin, smoked turkey and maybe some other meats that are more difficult for me to remember. They also have a variety of side dishes; the most notable side is the sweet cream corn. Russ and I both had some and I think we agreed that it is a unique delight. As evidence of this fact, I saw Russ licking his bowl clean.

After ordering, a trip to the pickle bar is the next stop. Pickles, peppers, onions and all the normal BBQ toppings are available. Gloria had found a nice picnic style table for us in an outer seating section. BBQ sauce is in bottles on the table and labeled “Spicy” and “Sissy.” Dispensing the sauce is no simple feat, there’s a lot of shaking required. See Gloria, Kevin, Russ and Henry enjoying the process. “That sauce is slow going, but it’s worth the wait.” Kevin commented. To what we ordered: Gloria had a smoked turkey sandwich, which she seemed to enjoy. Kevin had brisket, smoked turkey, a jalapeño sausage link and some ranch style beans. Russ wanted to get a variety of different things; he went with smoked turkey, pork loin and jalapeño sausage. I(HD) had the jalapeno sausage and pork loin. As we finished our meat fest, smiles of content filled our BBQ sauce stained mouths. All the meals are served with a pile of bread.

Table discussion was pretty typical, of course the ever growing rhetoric surrounding the Race for the Whitehouse captured our attention. With Dan Rather’s docu-drama topping the headlines there was a lot to discuss. Soon, our focus turned to Kevin’s speaking junket in Detroit, MI the previous weekend. He also told us about a little fishing trip he took on the back end of the weekend.

On the Salmon Trail in Michigan

It was a quiet morning on the shore of a small stream near the Motor City. Kevin and his brother joined a band of men with one simple goal: Conquer the mighty salmon as they make their, preordained from the very beginning of time, journey to the fertile spawning grounds. According to eye witness accounts, there were so many fish traveling up stream a man could have walked from one side to the other on their backs without getting wet. So, after a long time fishing everyone but Kevin had caught numerous salmon. With each passing hour, Kevin’s countenance sunk lower.

After so many hours of relentless disappointment, Kevin looked to the fisherman next to him and said, “Excuse me sir, I could not help but notice that you are a very gifted fisherman. You’ve caught so many fish, you’re totally awesome.” “That’s right young man, I am a fisherman and you can call me Kong,” he responded. Kevin continued, “Kong, you may have noticed that I have not caught any fish. I love to fish, but I am not very good. Do you think it would be possible for me to take one of the fish you have there on your stringer. I’ll attach my hook – then I can put it in the water when my brother is not looking and then pull it out like I am catching it. My brother will be so impressed. He’ll think I’m a real fisherman.”

Thinking about it for a moment, the fisherman replied, “Well young man, let me tell you a thing or two about the fisherman’s code. As fisherman, we are allowed to exaggerate about the size of fish, even lie to our wives about how long we are going to be out. But, under no circumstance can we (signaling air quotes)’create an elaborate charade to re-catch fish just to impress people.’ Now run along, I’ve got some fish to fry.”

Back in Texas

Kevin’s story was so heartbreaking that we all listened in riveted disbelief. To get the conversation back on track and save Kevin from any further embarrassment, Russ pointed to one of the television monitors in the restaurant that was replaying the Poker Championship (where incase you have forgotten, a TAMS graduate came in second place). We all made a silent agreement to not discuss the incident any further. This article is the first time the matter has been discussed since.

As for Rudy’s, the food is delicious and the atmosphere is festive. There is a patio and a gas station to boot. In the words of Kevin, “Kirby’s blew down. Steve’s burned down. But, Rudy’s stands strong.” Take our advice, go to Rudy’s but don't forget your wallet - it's gonna cost you.